Sometime between now and Thursday Jan 23: Pub night for trip participants to get together and discuss the trip, hazards and hazard management, and just generally have a good time. A Whatsapp group will also be created for sharing information and for discussion prior to the trip.

Friday Jan 24: Travel to HI Kananaskis and check in to Hostel (unfortunately the male and female participants will be housed in gender specific dorms).

Saturday Jan 25: Leave hostel approximately 6:45-7:00am to arrive at Galatea parking lot shortly after 7:00am. Early start is critical because Tasting Fear can only support 2-3 ropes so we need to arrive first to avoid getting scooped. Prepare for a 1 hr approach to the crag. A beacon check will be performed as we start our approach. We will climb steep ice for the day and exfil with enough time to reach the parking lot during daylight.

Sunday Jan 26: Leave hostel approximately 6:45-7:00am to arrive at Galatea parking lot shortly after 7:00am. Early start is critical because Wedge Smear can only support 3-4 ropes so we need to arrive first to avoid getting scooped. Prepare for a 40 min approach to the crag with some steep uphill near the end of the approach. We will climb a variety of low angle to steep ice (and possibly 1-2 mixed lines depending on the ice formation) and will exfil when the group is tired and ready to depart. Wedge Smear is easier climbing and more appropriate for the second day.

Helmet, Harness, Ice tools, Mountaineering/Ice climbing boots with appropriate ice climbing crampons. A headlamp (with full charge/spare batteries) will be required because some travel in the dark may be required. An avalanche beacon is required for all participants, and AST1/probe/shovel will be required for half of the trip participants. Beacons may be available through the club (but don't quote me). Please contact the trip coordinators if you do not have a beacon. Tasting Fear also has open water and the ice often has wet sections, so bring spare gloves and socks. Hand warmer packs and waterproof boots are recommended). Be prepared for long approach (approx. 1 hr) and mountain weather.

Accommodations are at the HI Kananaskis hostel (mandatory, fees as the hostel is pre-paid, and we need to get an early start to avoid getting scooped with such a large group). Hostel fees are $85 for the trip. We will meet at the Galatea parking lot at 7:00-7:15am both days.

Hazards:

• The approach crosses ATES2 avalanche terrain. It is easily managed, but all participants must carry beacons. Some members will carry avalanche rescue gear. Terrain crossing strategies will be used to manage the risk. Conditions are being monitored and recorded to assess hazard levels. Please contact the trip leaders if you need to borrow a beacon.
• Open Water. It is highly recommended to have several pairs of gloves and socks. Bring hardshell jackets and pants. Waterproof/double boots are recommended, you may have to walk across shallow open water. Handwarmers may also be helpful for some people.
• Ice fall. Belay stances are set up to prevent belayers from being in the ice fall zone. This requires anchoring belayers in some cases where a significant weight difference exists between climber and belayer.
• 1Hr approach. Come prepared with properly fitting boots and be prepared to manage blisters. The approach is relatively mellow, but don't expect a drive in crag! Bring a head lamp in case the approach and exit require walking in the dark.

Prerequisites / Courses Required: Must be able to top rope belay and have some ice climbing experience. Tasting Fear is a steep ice climb which may be challenging for beginners. If you do not know the trip coordinators, please contact them to discuss belay capabilities. The approach for Tasting Fear is approximately 1hr long, so please ensure that you come equipped with properly fitting boots and be prepared to manage blisters. Accommodations are pre-arranged at HI Kananaskis and are mandatory for this trip (to ensure that we get to the crag first since we have a large group, all participants must pay $85 to the trip coordinator to register for the trip).

Difficulty Rating: Don't let the difficulty rating scare you. Wedge smear is a WI3ish crag with a steep line or two. Tasting Fear is a WI5-, however it is usually fairly picked out and is easy for the grade. We will set up Tasting Fear as top rope, so we should be able to get climbing quickly and have a fun day of steep climbing.